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Kauai Information > History of the Hawaiian Luau

 

How fun to experience a celebration that is exotic! Although today’s luau’s are commercialized, the tradition of the luau is cultural and historic. Throughout the world, feasting has been and is a universal form of celebrating happy and important events. However, the Polynesians, and especially Hawaiians, have evolved this great pleasure into a truly unique cultural experience.
Feasts of early Hawai'i were a way of communicating between the Hawaiians and their gods. The feasts were more than a ritualistic offering of food to the spirits. It was believed the gods were present throughout the meal, creating a closer relationship between man and the gods.

Taken at Honaunau, on the Island of Hawaii, around 1910, by Lonzo Gartly. (Bishop Museum Archives). Notice the calabash bowls down the center of the table.


When the Englishman, Captain James Cook, "discovered" the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, the native people were already having lu'au. At the first feast Captain Cook went to, they had kalua pork, breadfruit, coconut, vegetables, and poi. They sat on woven mats and ate from large wooden calabash bowls. The Hawaiian priests even offered to chew the meat for the visitors first!
For a long time, there was a kapu, or law against women eating with men. If you broke the kapu, you could be killed. Then, in 1819, King Kamehameha II and Princess Kaahumanu ate together and broke the kapu. They abolished the law so everyone could eat together.


Much to the consternation of the proper Victorian visitors, utensils were never used at a luau, instead everything was eaten with the fingers. Poi of various consistencies got its name from the number of fingers needed to eat it… three finger, two finger, or the thickest, one finger poi.
These royal luaus tended to be big. One of the largest ever was hosted by Kamehameha III in 1847. The list of foods prepared included 271 hogs, 482 large calabashes of poi, 3,125 salt fish, 1,820 fresh fish, 2,245 coconuts, 4,000 taro plants and numerous other delicacies. King Kalakaua, who was known as the "Merry Monarch" for his love of parties and dance, invited over 1500 guests to his 50th birthday luau. They were fed in shifts of 500!


A guest at King Kalakaua's coronation luau in 1883 described the lavish decorations typical of the traditional luau, "Tables were draped with white, but the entire tops were covered with ferns and leaves massed together so as almost to form a tablecloth of themselves; quantities of flowers were placed about mingling with the ferns… The natives had turned out in great numbers, and the scent of their leis of flowers and maile leaves was almost overpowering."


The traditional luau feast was eaten on the floor. Lauhala mats were rolled out and a beautiful centerpiece made of ti leaves, ferns and native flowers about three feet wide was laid the length of the mat. Bowls filled with poi, a staple of the Hawaiian diet made from pounded taro root, and platters of meat were set out and dry foods like sweet potatoes, salt, dried fish or meat covered in leaves were laid directly on the clean ti leaves.


Historically, the food and practices observed at an 'aha 'aina were rich with symbolism and the entire event was designed to unite the participants, similar to the way the old Hawaiians braided strands of coconut husk fiber, or sennit, into thicker 'aha cords and rope. For example, certain foods might represent strength, while the names or attributes of other food items might relate to virtues or goals the participants hoped to achieve.


In old Hawaii a luau meant a lavish food extravaganza to honor royalty, foreign dignitaries, powerful chieftains, or hundreds of guests at important weddings, christenings or birthdays. Each guest is customarily greeted with leis of flowers or kukui nuts. Much preparation is required for these often three-day parties. Guests eat a bit, danced a bit, drank a little and sang a lot. A luau is the true experience of "aloha".


Before contact with the western world, Hawaiians called their important feasts an 'aha 'aina. These feasts marked special occasions — such as reaching a significant life milestone, the launching of a new canoe or a great endeavor. A few survive in modern forms, such as the luau for the one-year-old baby, a graduation or wedding, that are common among Hawaiian and local families who may not even realize the practice has ancient origins.


Starting about 150 years ago the term luau gradually replaced 'aha 'aina. Luau, in Hawaiian and other Polynesian languages, is actually the name of the taro leaf, which when young and small is cooked like spinach and is often mixed with other foods, creating Hawaiian favorites such as luau squid or luau chicken; but today, luau is the commonly accepted name of a Hawaiian feast.
Even so, the abundant food served at the modern Alii Luau represents the aloha spirit that brings guests and islanders together in a memorable setting at the Polynesian Cultural Center. Or as "Cousin" Benny Kai, the PCC's "Ambassador of Aloha" says, "Whenever you're at a Hawaiian luau, you are 'ohana — family."


Today the luau is a major visitor attraction and dozens are held daily throughout the islands. Needless to say, some preparations have been streamlined, although the traditional roast pig and other authentic delectables are still served. Luaus today are not as big as those hosted by Hawaiian royalty in the 1800s, but they are a lot of fun and feature the same traditional foods… and utensils are allowed.


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