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How fun to experience a celebration that is exotic!
Although today’s luau’s are commercialized, the tradition
of the luau is cultural and historic. Throughout the world, feasting
has been and is a universal form of celebrating happy and important events.
However, the Polynesians, and especially Hawaiians, have evolved this
great pleasure into a truly unique cultural experience.
Feasts of early Hawai'i were a way of communicating between the Hawaiians
and their gods. The feasts were more than a ritualistic offering of food
to the spirits. It was believed the gods were present throughout the
meal, creating a closer relationship between man and the gods.
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Taken at Honaunau, on the Island of Hawaii, around 1910, by Lonzo
Gartly. (Bishop Museum Archives). Notice the calabash bowls down
the center of the table. |
When the Englishman, Captain James Cook, "discovered" the Hawaiian
Islands in 1778, the native people were already having lu'au. At the
first feast Captain Cook went to, they had kalua pork, breadfruit, coconut,
vegetables, and poi. They sat on woven mats and ate from large wooden
calabash bowls. The Hawaiian priests even offered to chew the meat for
the visitors first!
For a long time, there was a kapu, or law against women eating with men.
If you broke the kapu, you could be killed. Then, in 1819, King Kamehameha
II and Princess Kaahumanu ate together and broke the kapu. They abolished
the law so everyone could eat together.
Much to the consternation of the proper Victorian visitors, utensils
were never used at a luau, instead everything was eaten with the fingers.
Poi of various consistencies got its name from the number of fingers
needed to eat it… three finger, two finger, or the thickest, one
finger poi.
These royal luaus tended to be big. One of the largest ever was hosted
by Kamehameha III in 1847. The list of foods prepared included 271 hogs,
482 large calabashes of poi, 3,125 salt fish, 1,820 fresh fish, 2,245
coconuts, 4,000 taro plants and numerous other delicacies. King Kalakaua,
who was known as the "Merry Monarch" for his love of parties
and dance, invited over 1500 guests to his 50th birthday luau. They were
fed in shifts of 500!
A guest at King Kalakaua's coronation luau in 1883 described the lavish
decorations typical of the traditional luau, "Tables were draped
with white, but the entire tops were covered with ferns and leaves massed
together so as almost to form a tablecloth of themselves; quantities
of flowers were placed about mingling with the ferns… The natives
had turned out in great numbers, and the scent of their leis of flowers
and maile leaves was almost overpowering."
The traditional luau feast was eaten on the floor. Lauhala mats were
rolled out and a beautiful centerpiece made of ti leaves, ferns and native
flowers about three feet wide was laid the length of the mat. Bowls filled
with poi, a staple of the Hawaiian diet made from pounded taro root,
and platters of meat were set out and dry foods like sweet potatoes,
salt, dried fish or meat covered in leaves were laid directly on the
clean ti leaves.
Historically, the food and practices observed at an 'aha 'aina were rich
with symbolism and the entire event was designed to unite the participants,
similar to the way the old Hawaiians braided strands of coconut husk
fiber, or sennit, into thicker 'aha cords and rope. For example, certain
foods might represent strength, while the names or attributes of other
food items might relate to virtues or goals the participants hoped to
achieve.
In old Hawaii a luau meant a lavish food extravaganza to honor royalty,
foreign dignitaries, powerful chieftains, or hundreds of guests at important
weddings, christenings or birthdays. Each guest is customarily greeted
with leis of flowers or kukui nuts. Much preparation is required for
these often three-day parties. Guests eat a bit, danced a bit, drank
a little and sang a lot. A luau is the true experience of "aloha".
Before contact with the western world, Hawaiians called their important
feasts an 'aha 'aina. These feasts marked special occasions — such
as reaching a significant life milestone, the launching of a new canoe
or a great endeavor. A few survive in modern forms, such as the luau
for the one-year-old baby, a graduation or wedding, that are common among
Hawaiian and local families who may not even realize the practice has
ancient origins.
Starting about 150 years ago the term luau gradually replaced 'aha 'aina.
Luau, in Hawaiian and other Polynesian languages, is actually the name
of the taro leaf, which when young and small is cooked like spinach and
is often mixed with other foods, creating Hawaiian favorites such as
luau squid or luau chicken; but today, luau is the commonly accepted
name of a Hawaiian feast.
Even so, the abundant food served at the modern Alii Luau represents
the aloha spirit that brings guests and islanders together in a memorable
setting at the Polynesian Cultural Center. Or as "Cousin" Benny
Kai, the PCC's "Ambassador of Aloha" says, "Whenever you're
at a Hawaiian luau, you are 'ohana — family."
Today the luau is a major visitor attraction and dozens are held daily
throughout the islands. Needless to say, some preparations have been
streamlined, although the traditional roast pig and other authentic delectables
are still served. Luaus today are not as big as those hosted by Hawaiian
royalty in the 1800s, but they are a lot of fun and feature the same
traditional foods… and utensils are allowed.
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